Threads of Oppression: The evolution of African fashion

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By Elizabeth Duve Dziva

Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, a Nigerian novelist remarked that, “a single story creates stereotypes, and the problem with stereotypes is not that they are untrue, but that they are incomplete. They make us forget that people have a million different stories within them.” This implies that we should move beyond binary views of traditional versus modern dressing and embrace the diversity of dressing styles. Imagine a continent where bare skin wasn’t synonymous with shame, where animal hide wasn’t a primitive relic, but a badge of cultural pride. Imagine a world where people only walked in animal skin and it was regarded as decent. Yet, after the colonial cloth came, a mere attempt to wear anything that exposes any skin is regarded as indecent. This is how complicated the issue of fashion in Africa. It leaves Africans asking: are we embracing evolution, or simply draped in the lingering shadows of oppression? If we embraced fashion from animal skin to the cloth, why can’t we embrace t to what is trending today without implicating the bible or terming the new trends “immoral”? Are we not resisting another stage of evolution and development?
Imagine a time when animal hide wasn’t a dusty museum relic, but a badge of cultural swagger. Bare skin wasn’t a scandal, but a confident expression of identity. This was the reality for many African communities before colonialism draped its rigid “decency” rules over them like a scratchy wool blanket on a scorching day. Fast forward to today, and we find ourselves caught in a sartorial tug-of-war.
For our ancestors, clothing was practical and symbolic. Animal skins protected against the elements, while intricate scarifications and natural ornamentation told stories of identity and belonging. Colonial powers, however, deemed this “primitive” and imposed their own standards of dress, often made from imported fabrics with foreign designs. This wasn’t just about changing clothes; it was about reshaping notions of modesty and cultural identity.
Interestingly, the Bible, often cited as a source of “decency”, offers no specific guidance on clothing. Yet, its interpretations have been woven into colonial ideologies, dictating acceptable attire in schools, workplaces, and even churches. This begs the question: are we clinging to outdated notions of morality, or simply resisting the natural evolution of African fashion?
Today, across campuses and streets, young Africans embrace trendy styles like crop tops and bum shorts. To some, this is blatant nudity, a rejection of tradition and morality. To others, it’s self-expression, a celebration of bodies and the freedom to choose. The label of “walking naked” becomes a weapon, wielded against those who dare to redefine “decency” on their own terms.
The fight for cultural liberation extends beyond dusty books and museum exhibits. It’s about reclaiming our agency over how we adorn ourselves. This doesn’t mean rejecting modern trends or ignoring practical considerations. It’s about questioning the colonial assumptions that equate exposed skin with impropriety and recognizing the richness and diversity of African aesthetics.
It’s essential to challenge outdated norms, and celebrate the beauty and power of our diverse sartorial heritage. We must shed the colonial legacy like an ill-fitting garment and embrace the vibrant diversity of African fashion, past, present, and future.
Ultimately, the question isn’t whether we wear animal skins or high fashion. It’s about reclaiming the right to define our own “decency” and express our identities through the stories woven into our garments. Let’s rewrite the script, one stitch at a time, and move beyond the shame and judgment to see the rich cultural conversation unfolding beneath the fabric.
Remember, fashion is more than just cloth; it’s a cultural conversation starter, a powerful tool for reclaiming narratives, and a journey towards self-acceptance. So, let’s join hands, embrace the vibrant threads of African fashion, and walk into the future with confidence and pride.

Elizabeth Duve Dziva is a Cultural Heritage Practitioner and an English teacher at some school under the African sky. The views and opinions expressed in this article are solely the owner’s and do not represent any organisation. Email: duveelizabeth@gmail.com, WhatsApp : +263771661813

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